14. huhtikuuta 2012

Ladies skirt with buttons, part 2

Here is my final post about Ladies skirt with buttons or Ladies scalloped edge skirt, as it is also known. (#E0200). See Ladies skirt with buttons, part 1 here. This is part of the 1912 Project by VPLL.

Fabric choices
I debated long weather I wanted this version to be just a mock-up or a real thing, but at the end I felt that the fabric and colour weren't right for a usable skirt. I'd rather make a new one from a nicer fabric. I used old sheet of cotton satin. It was soft, but maybe too thin for this kind of skirt. If I were to make an usable version of this, I'd use thicker or stiffer material like wool(blend) or maybe satin. I actually have a nice cotton/rayon fabric in my stash, which I might use. The instructions says silk or taffeta, which would be nice. Unfortunately one can't nowadays have an everyday dress made of silk :(

The patterns says 35"–36" waist (88–91 cm), I measured it and it was 88cm. Mine is ca. 71 cm (28") without a corset. The skirt has four gores, front, sides and back gore cut on fold.
(Edited:) My plan was to narrow each piece 1 cm, but it seems I took in 2 cm per pattern. The waist was a bit too tight when I tried the skirt on for the first time. I think the right amount would have been something between 1–2 cm.
I didn't finish the hem of my mock-up, but I was surprised how good the length was. I'm about 172 cm tall (5'8). Usually I need to add some length to garments I'm sewing, especially if I'm using historical patterns. But this skirts length was just perfect, there's just enough extra to make proper hemming.
If I were to make a real thing with this pattern, I would probably use it with some undergarments like corset and a proper petticoat. I think I wouldn't then make any alterations on patterns but do the required alterations when trying it on for the first time. That said, I think this pattern is pretty much my size as it is and I usually wear size 36 (European).

The mock-up fit perfectly already in first time I tried it on. I love the smooth line the lifted waist line gives. And it actually makes you look a bit like a fashion plate drawing from 1912 :)
Besides the confusion about the waist size, I didn't make any alterations on patterns. And if I needed to make the gores narrower or wider, I think I wouldn't add/reduce same amount on each piece. Instead I'd make the front piece a bit wider in relation to the side and the back piece. I think the scallops would be nicer a bit more on the side than where they are now. I think in the drawing the scallops seems to be more on the side.
I found the instructions a bit hard to follow. But that might be because English isn't my first language. Luckily, the skirt was easy enough to make without referring that much to the instructions. Pictures would help a lot. Maybe Janyce could use the best construction pictures of this Project to illustrate the final pattern instructions?

Skirts are almost always easy to construct. But I made things harder for myself. I always watch some film or tv series on my computer while pinning, pasting, hand-sewing etc. I tried to get as much of the skirt done as possible before sitting by my sewing machine. So I ended up sewing the scalloped edge last, which was a huge mistake.
It is doable, but it would have been a lot easier to first finish the scalloped edge and the sew the other seams.
I sewed the scallop seam to the left front seam first in a straight line and then along the scallops. If this was a finished garment, I'd probably sew one or both of those seams so that they wouldn't show to the right side. I don't like how the binding comes out. I might be that a satin binding is too sturdy with thin cotton or ironing might help. But I not leaving it there, I just used some bias I happened to have in my stash and I wouldn't use it if this would be an usable version. 

I would also continue the left side facing so that it would cover the first scallop too. I would use hooks and bars fastening and would put it in the peak of the scallop so it'd need a bit extra support.

Skill level
I consider myself an advanced sewer and I think this garment was easy to construct. With illustrated instructions I think anyone could sew this skirt.

Pattern rating
I love the lifted waistline and I'm definitely going to use this as a base pattern for other projects. I didn't like the scallops that much though. Maybe they would look better on some other fabric.

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