25. maaliskuuta 2012

1911 corset progress: the mock-up

I'm a bit behind in blogging about my corset progress. I took these pictures about a month ago.

I always use old cotton sheets for mock-ups. As I did this time too. I experimented with some new techniques which I learned from the sew along. That is, not pinning the patterns to fabric but instead using weights to keep them in place. I don't own any paper weights but I think I've once seen some other costume blogger use spoons and it worked very well. 
I had to alter the mock-up three or four times. I thought I'd carefully measured and altered the pattern accordingly to fit me, but the first mock-up turned out to be way too big. Especially around the hips, so the first thing I did was to recut the hip gores without any added width. Below is a picture from the second mock-up with the new hip gores. It is still quite loose as you can see and I didn't even lace it very tightly.
At this point I went back to the pattern and took in circa 0,5 cm in every pattern piece except the gores. And after fitting that new version I still took in an extra 1 cm from the side seams. The picture below would then be the fourth fitting.
The last three pictures are from the final mock-up. Now it's starting to look like a corset. After this I still added a little ease around the front opening so it would lie more neatly.
It is always nice to have some goodies when sewing. I made some raw chocolate with coconut oil and cashew nuts. 

17. maaliskuuta 2012

Ladies skirt with buttons, part 1

I actually wrote this post a few weeks ago, when I received the patter. But I've been so absorbed in the Moot Court competition that I hadn't time to finish it until now.

I took a break from my studies and let my brain to rest while assembling the #0200 Ladies skirt aka Skirt with Buttons pattern. It is from La Mode Illustrée February 2, 1912.

I receive my patterns in .pdf format, since I have a mac and can't therefore use the PatternMaker software. (The only other time I've been an unhappy mac user, the other was when I tried to use Word on my computer and it crashed all the time :D) I printed out the .pdf file on A4 sized paper.

I first thought that assembling the patterns would be hard since the sheet don't overlap a bit. But on the contrary, it made it a lot easier. Because the sheets didn't overlap all I needed to check that the lines where straight.
As a reference point: the other pdf-print patterns I've ever used before are the Sense & Sensibility e-patterns. I have to say that, in my opinion, these Titanic project were a lot easier to put together. Here is a picture of one of my Sense & Sensibility e-patterns that I've printed out and taped together. It was much harder to align the lines when paper sheets overlapped and there was a white border in the edges of the paper.
Here is back gore and side gore assembled. The lines are rather feeble. But if you can see there is rather big empty space on the top of the side gore pattern. You could save three sheets of paper if the side piece was situated at the same level as the back piece. All you'd have to do is to move the side piece
1 cm to right and they would fit just fine.

Look at this! So easy to fold and store in a A4 envelope. I wish all my patterns would fold up so neatly.

I'm planning to try out the pattern with some old sheets next week. Can't wait!

My thoughts on the patterns:
- What an amazing job Janyce have done. You can hardly believe the patterns once looked like that ->
- I absolute like the patterns as they are, the lines are neat and clear although they could be a bit thicker, they are easy to put together and
- it'd be nice if all important text was inside the borders of the pattern pieces, now I copied everything by hand before I threw away the extra paper.

1. maaliskuuta 2012

Let the 1912 project begin

It happened that I got my first pattern sooner than I expected. Yesterday I got mail from Janyce that she decided to combine my group with another so that there would be just one international group. It seems that there isn't so many of us from outside of the American continent.

Anyway, I got my first 1912 project pattern!! It's the #E0200 Skirt with buttons and scalloped edge.

vpll 1912 project

I'm really looking forward to making this skirt since I've always wondered if the skirt waistband really sat right under breasts or did they just drew their fashion plates that way.

I'm getting my patterns in digital format, because I thought that it would be a bit too costly for Janyce to send them to the other side of the world by snail mail. And a lot slower too. There is something wrong with my mac though, because I could't open the password locked pdf with it. At school on PC it worked just fine.

I'm trying to enhance my drafting skills and instead of just cutting the mock-up right away and doing most alterations with it, I try to make the pattern so near my measurements as possible.

I have lots of old sheet, which I use for mock-ups and as lining. At first I'm only going to do the mock-ups, mainly because I have so much studying to do right now. But as my everlasting project is to create a usable 1910's style wardrobe, I'm going to make real garments at some point though.

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